How To Install Sewage Ejector Pump In Basement

how to install sewage ejector pump in basement

The plumbing system in your home is for the most part designed to use gravity in ensuring there’s a proper removal of waste. This works, but just in case your home has a finished basement, then you’ll have to install an ejector pump to help you move the waste up through the disposal pipes into your plumbing system.

While you can hire a plumber to help you install the pump, there’s nothing complicated about the process involved that you can’t get it done all by yourself. This is particularly the case if you’re planning to install one in your laundry room or bathroom.

With this pump, you can flush the excess water in your room directly into the sewer lines below.

What You’ll Need


  • Basin
  • Float Switch
  • Full-flow check valve
  • Caulk/heavy duty glue
  • A series of other necessary tools

Here Are Simple Steps That you can follow to install your own Sewage ejector pump in the basement:


To install the pump, you can start by purchasing all the parts you’ll need to effectively install the pump yourself. In which case, you have the option of purchasing each of these parts separately or as a kit, which comes with everything you’ll need to install one in your home.

Read this bearing in mind that purchasing the pump as a kit can be a little bit expensive, but it’s more convenient considering it will be saving you the hassle of finding individual parts one-by-one.

That being said, here’s a detailed, step-by-step guide you can follow to install the pump yourself.

Directions:

1

Mount the Basin to the Floor

The first thing you do while installing the pump is mount a basin to your bath or laundry room, after which you can go ahead and attach the ejector pump to the bottom of the basin.

While at it, it’s crucial to ensure the pump is NOT wobbly, considering an unsteady pump will most likely lean, tip, or fall over when it’s finally hit by water.

One approach to use is to consider sticking it in place using caulk or hard hold glue. It’s also important to ensure the basin is firmly placed to the ground to prevent it from cracking or leaking.

Come to think of it, whenever someone flushes the toiled, the water will be first drained into the basin before it’s bought down into the pump, and back to the main line of your sewage system.

2

Set up Float Switches

It’s important that the level of water rises high enough the level of the float switches. This can be found at the top of the ejector pump.

You have to secure the pump such that the trigger will be pointing down in the direction of the basin. Next, go ahead and secure it using the heavy duty glue.

Simple, every time the fluids rises to the level of float switch, the pump will be turned on, forcing the fluid to be suctioned up the check valve and directly into the drain. At this point, it’s important to ensure the vent outlet isn’t clogged or plugged. Also check to ensure the outlet has a clear 3 inch opening and a rubber grommet in it.

Also, it’s important to ensure the discharging outlet is not plugged, and that it displays as a 2 inch opening that will be leading to the main line of the sewage system.

3

Piping and Testing

Sewage ejector pump

Try using a 4 inch draining pipe for the inlet. An alternative would be to settle for a 3 inch drain pipe, which should be able to work just fine.

The next thing you do is test out the toilet to find out if it’s draining. Speaking of which, the toilet must be draining really well so as NOT to flood the yard. Where you suspect the pump or basin is leaking, go ahead and adjust it. You’re also allowed to add more caulk or glue around the seams to make it more secure.

The last thing you want to do at this point is close the job with a leaking pump, which put your drainage system at risk of cracking or rusting. And if turns out that the pump is leaking, then find out which one between the pump and basin has a leaking problem and replace it immediately.

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